El Fanoos: June 2009

Looking across the Nile Valley to Giza

Landing in Cairo in the middle of the night can be both a blessing and a curse. On one hand, you fly through the streets with the cab windows down, free from the oppressive Egyptian sun and annoying honks and back-ups that accompany daytime traffic. On the other hand, it fails to prepare you for the chaos of an awakened Cairo. But I knew what awaited us the following day--a locust storm of people, vehicles, and dry dust--and thoroughly enjoyed the tranquil cab ride from airport to downtown (with a slight detour thanks to the honorable, paranoid President Mubarak who closed all the roads surrounding his palace).

Walking through the crowded streets the following day I was forced to eat a few of my words. In preparation for the trip, Melissa had half-jokingly asked about wearing a niqab, the traditional Muslim face covering, to avoid being heckled in the streets, a nearly unavoidable result of being a good looking Caucasian female. I full-heartedly rejected the idea on grounds that, while the niqab is prominent in rural Egypt, it's rarely worn in the touristed areas of Cairo. Yet, as soon as we stepped outside the tally began, and continued until I was forced to admit that the niqab has become a common sight in all areas of Cairo.

When I left Egypt in 2004, people were talking about a resurgence of strict Muslim tradition amongst all layers of Egyptian society. Until I witnessed the newfound prevalence of the most conservative female Muslim dress, I didn't believe it. Perhaps it's simply that females feel more comfortable sheltered from the scrutinizing eye of the Egyptian male, but the added annoyance alone would have to be great to justify cloaking one's self in all black under the smothering heat of Cairo summer. More likely is the popularization of rejecting everything Western in favor of returning to Muslim tradition. Many Muslims perceive that their society was more dignified and globally influential in its historical heyday when stricter social guidelines were followed. Therefore, returning to those conservative ideals will guide the Muslim World to a heightened global position. This transformation, spanning decades, has been fueled by the last 8 years of western politics. It's an understandable phenomenon in light of how much our past administration and its allies rejected the Middle East's collective identity when forming Middle East policies.

Take for example the Gaza elections in 2005, in which Hamas (considered a "terrorist group" by many western nations including the United States and Israel) received 2/3 of the contested seats. This political experiment, pushed heavily by the Bush administration, backfired on western nations hoping for democratic reform, when what they meant by "democratic reform" was adoption of western-style governance. Historically in Islam, however, there is no separation of church and state. When the Islamic parties increase their overall popularity by implementing social welfare programs with much more efficiency than the current government, and come to power through fair democratic elections, the result is an Islamization of government. It's yet to be seen whether Egypt's transformation will reach this point, or if the current, self-preserving administration will be allowed to continue its authoritative control over politics. Regardless, it's a significant change considering that Egypt is one of the Middle East's most westernized nations.

Muhammad 'Ali Mosque, Cairo

Pyramids of Giza

Minarets of al-Azhar and Al-Hussein mosques, Cairo

Another change that will undoubtedly be beneficial in the long-term is a new government aid program to help replace the antiquated, exhaust spewing taxis with new reduced omissions vehicles. Under the new initiative, a taxi driver is given a certain amount for a down payment in exchange for the old vehicle. Then, advertising space is rented on the cab's interior to help with monthly payments. There are a relative few who have taken the offer, but it's a good start to improving air quality in one of the world's most polluted cities.

Islamic Cairo, looking towards Sultan Hassan and Muhammad 'Ali mosques

Al-Azhar's Court

Train arriving for Luxor

River Taxi in Luxor

Valley of the Kings, Luxor

Night at Luxor Temple

A ruin spanning three civilizations: the original temple was built by New Kingdom pharaohs, the archway was closed and flanked by columns by the Romans, and Coptic Christians covered the pharaonic glyphs with plaster.

When this mosque was built on top of the Luxor Temple ruins, the ground level was nearly 5 meters higher, evidenced by the door now open to a drop. Much of the Luxor Temple was preserved by being buried in Nile silt.

Morning at Karnak, before the oppressive heat and crowds

World's Largest Columnated Hall, Karnak Temple, Luxor

Columnated Hall, Karnak

A less welcomed change is the preference of Euro over US dollar. With the combined strength of the European economy, and uncertainty in the future of the US market, it's easy to see why an Egyptian would prefer to deal in a stronger currency that's becoming more popular globally. Still, when I'm constantly reminded of our faltering market caused by a greedy, manipulative system back home, my American sense can't help but be offended. That being said, I don't like being quoted in US dollars either. Transactions should be solely in the local currency. From Cairo to Upper Egypt to the Delta to Sinai, there's no standardization of currencies used by hotels, tour agencies, dive centers, and various other vendors. It's annoying to continually deal with daily conversion rates, or worse, to be charged a penalty by converting the foreign currency rates to Egyptian pounds at an unfair exchange rate set by the vendor. If the idea is to encourage the use of stronger foreign currency, which is beneficial to a weaker economy, then discounts should be given when paying with foreign currencies rather than penalties issued when paying with Egyptian pounds.

Despite this annoyance, touring Egypt is better today than it was five years ago. There have been significant improvements to tourist sites in terms of better infrastructure and less hassle. In 2004, I nearly got into a fight with an aggressive trinket seller at the Pyramids of Giza who was harassing my father. Last year a wall was built around the complex that keeps the hordes at bay. The vendors privileged enough to be let in are more tempered to avoid losing that privilege. Similar systems have been instituted in Luxor and Aswan to ensure that tourists are able to enjoy the awe-inspiring sites hassle free. Each site has also been outfitted with an air-conditioned tourist center (necessary down south during the Nubian summer) complete with small-scale model of the ruins/tombs/temples/etc. It lends a new perspective to the huge pillars and stone structures that dwarf the largest of men.

Morning in Aswan

Hieroglyphics on Elphantine Island, Aswan

West Bank, Aswan

"Which way to the Pyramids?"

Christian Monastery, West Bank, Aswan

Despite the 120F temperatures outside, it was still cool inside the monastery's living quarters.

Monastic living quarters

"Give us a kiss."

Bread Vendor in Aswan

Nile Sunrise

This unfinished obelisk in the Aswan granite quarry would have been the largest single piece of transported stone sculpture in the ancient world. It was abandoned when a large crack appeared on the face.

Umayyad Tombs (8th century AD) in Aswan

First Cataract of the Nile, Aswan

Corniche at night, Alexandria

Qaitbay Castle, an Ottoman-era harbor defense, Alexandria

Last but not least on our tour of Egypt was Dahab, my old stomping ground in the Sinai peninsula. In 2004, Dahab was a little hippie town where days were spent floating amongst the Red Sea's prolific and colorful aquatic life, and lounging lazily in the dozens of homogeneous seaside cafes. Little, if any, has changed. It's a welcomed consolation that in a country constantly being developed and molded around the tourist economy while trying to balance it's ancient Egyptian, Muslim, and more recent western identities, there are still places that time has forgotten.