Coquimbo Fish Market
Fishing vessels lined up in Coquimbo´s harbor
Interesting statue in one of Coquimbo´s squares
La Serena, like most coastal towns in Chile, has a lot of history. At one time it served as a garrison for Spanish troops as they marched between Santiago and areas further north. La Serena’s old Catholic churches, of which there are 27, were frequently attacked and burned by marauding pirates over the centuries. Today, it´s the quiet backdrop to a large, popular beach, which reportedly draws hundreds of Chileans and Argentinians during the summer months.
We ended up here by circumstance. Melissa’s friend from Tucson has family here. For two days Skip and Mary treated us like family—giving us a place to sleep, touring us around the area, feeding us some of the best (home cooked!) food we’ve eaten in South America, and introducing us to their nephew, Cristian, who drove us around to all the major sights.
Nearby Coquimbo is a small port city. At time of visit, it had several fishing boats and a lone cargo ship moored in the bay. Above it all sits the Millennium Cross, built by the Catholic Church to commemorate the 2000 birthday of Christ. Ironically, the cross was built right in the middle of Coquimbo’s slums (packed with Palestinian immigrants, who defiantly erected a mosque in the cross’ shadow). I’m sure the billions of dollars spent on this expression of devotion to the teachings of Christ could have built homes for thousands of poor families. Instead, you can ride an elevator up the cross’ shaft and look out over the slums while browsing the life-sized bronze busts of cardinals and popes.
After, we drove over to a hill overlooking a secluded baby. Rumor has it that pirates used this area as a hideout and shelter several centuries ago. The claim is supported by a huge statue of Sir Francis Drake that has since been defaced and re-dedicated to the fishermen of Coquimbo, supposedly after locals grew weary of pirate attacks. Even so, the local population seems to retain a bit of rebellious sentiment, honoring pirate culture in restaurants and shops.
Pirate Bay
Sir Francis Drake´s statue towers above Coquimbo. The plaque has been ripped off and replaced with a sign honoring local fishermen.
"Fire!" (photo by Melissa Meyer)
The next day we were surprised when Skip offered to take us on a small airplane flight. We drove over to his air club where the Cessna 182 was parked. He gave us an option—coast or valley. We opted for the latter and hopped in. Leaving La Serena we cruised, 3000´ high, up the valley. In the distance we could see astronomical observatories crowning peaks and a patchwork of farmland below. Twenty minutes later we were flying over Vicunya, an idyllic country town surrounded by grape and avocado farms. We circled Vicunya and headed back. One thing I noticed from the air was all the roads and tracks criss-crossing the hills. Apparently off-roading and mountain biking are popular with the locals.
Skip readying the Cessna
Bird´s eye view of the river valley east of La Serena. The light green plants leading up into the hills are grapes grown to produce Pisco, the local fire water.
The idyllic country town of Vicunya, surrounded by farmland
A private astronomical observatory crowns a nearby peak. The clear desert air in this region offers unobstructed views of the night sky.
Back in La Serena we enjoyed another delicious home-cooked meal, watched Chile beat Peru in soccer, 3-1 (a heated match due to political emotions over Peru´s claim to part of the Chilean coast), and prepared to leave for San Pedro de Atacama the next day.
We were sad to leave, mainly because we were eating so well. We can´t thank Skip, Mary, and Cristian enough. Their hospitality made La Serena a stop with all the comforts of home on our hostel-filled trek.
One of our awesome vegan homemade meals, with traditional (and delicious) Chilean bean soup and corn cake.
Cristian playing some Sublime while Black Kitty Kitty grooves on his shoulder
The Palestinean owner of a seaside falafel shop wouldn´t accept a tip, so I inscribed an 1000 peso note with Arabic poetry.
Yet another awesome homemade vegan meal with veggie lasagna, fries, and fresh vegetables (and more corn cake! my favorite)
Our gracious hosts, Skip and Mary
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