Argentina's Cascading Crown Jewel

Chico Falls


I knew Puerto Iguazu was a small town when we rolled in on our 1st class bus (Argentina, we found out, has an incredibly luxurious and relatively cheap bus system), but I had no idea how small until I saw the fifteen-minute queues in front of the only two ATMs in town on a Wednesday night.


The "Panorama" Seats


As the Argentinean gateway to the infamous Iguazu Falls, Puerto Iguazu is a town geared toward tourism. Just as in Buenos Aires, streets and alleys are lined with cheap, tacky trinkets, the kind that people buy to preserve memories then usually brush into junk drawer. Years later they may pull it out, smile, and gently put it back. In lieu of bric-a-brac, I opt for another way to look back on my travels—pictures. Lucky for me Iguazu Falls is as photogenic and wildly appealing as an Amazon princess.


Into the Void (photo by Melissa Meyer)



Grassy valley leading to Isla San Martin


Upon arrival we still had time to visit the Brazilian side of the falls. Most will tell that you’ll get a better view of the falls from Brazil. The problem for Americans (and Australians, Canadians, ETC) is the $120 price of a Brazilian visa. Not wanting to pay over $100 for something I can see on a $1 postcard, myself and my accomplices attempted to persuade the Brazilian border guard to let us in for a few hours. It may have worked if our cab driver hadn’t gone up and immediately stopped the agent from handing us paperwork, proceeding to ask her to let us in illegally. If anyone is thinking about trying this, leave your cab driver in the car. Short story shorter, we didn’t get into Brazil. BUT, the views were just as stunning from the Argentinean side. In addition, you get a full day hiking out of the experience because Argentina has developed a trail system spanning the entire falls and cataracts. Who needs a postcard panorama when you can get up close and personal with each and every cascading fall?

Pictures can speak louder than my words could ever echo, so I’ll let them convey Iguazu Falls’ indescribable beauty. Just believe me when I say that Iguazu Falls is one of the most gorgeous and awe-inspiring spectacles in the world.


Taking a break above Chico Falls


We awoke at 6:45 AM to catch the day’s first bus into the park. If you’re lucky, you can arrive first to the park’s largest spectacle, Garganta del Diablo (“Devil’s Throat”). Here, the falls roar down 10 stories in a white, misty U-shape. From the observation deck clinging to the edge, you get an up close and soaking view. Because we ran out the 2km metal walkway from the first train of the day, we were able to have this view all to ourselves for at least 10 minutes. We stood speechless, drenching ourselves in the misty roar.


Garganta del Diablo


After the crowds came, we moseyed back to the restaurant for lunch. I picked up the menu, completely expecting salad to be the only veg-friendly food. To our great surprise and delight, we discovered that they serve a soy burger. Those of you who aren’t herbivores may not relate, but finding a soy burger in the boonies of a country that is known for its beef-culture is like winning the lottery. We were elated and took our time to enjoy the rare treat.


A view of Ramirez and Bossetti Falls


Thoroughly stuffed, we decided to walk around the Cataracts to burn off some calories. For the next 4 hours, we explored the park’s remote pleasures—completing the entire upper and lower circuits and hiking around Isla San Martin, which you get to by river ferry. When the day grew hot and muggy, it was time for a dip in the river. It felt great other than the little fish who were presumably trying to clean our skin, but may have been trying to remove chunks of flesh. Thankfully, we exited with no open wounds.


Cascading Cataracts of Mgigua Falls


The whole day we had been watching people take a jet boat ride under San Martin Falls. After our dip, and a brief time waiting out a passing shower, it was our turn. I took this as an opportunity to test my new Mountain Hardware Gore-Tex mountaineering jacket. When the moment of deluge came, I cinched myself up tighter than Ebenezer’s change purse. Two rounds of torrential falls later, I was completely dry except for a spot on my chest where the water ran down my chin. I was already a HUGE fan of Mountain Hardware, and this test convinced me of its superior quality.


Getting ready to take the plunge



Another group about to get wet under San Martin Falls


We dried off at the river’s edge, taking in one last view of the stunning falls. Soon, it was time to leave our magical paradise. Originally we weren’t planning on going 40 bus hours out of our intended path to visit Iguazu Falls. It wasn’t until a friend who met us in the Argentinean capitol convinced us of the journey’s worth. I’m thankful that we met up with her in Buenos Aires, or we would have missed this top 5 (Oleson Rating) UNESCO World Heritage Site. Coming from someone who has visited a great many US National Parks, and other World Heritage Sites such as the Tasmanian wilderness (best view of the night sky), Egyptian and Roman antiquities, and Archaeological sites throughout Latin America, it’s easy for me to say that Iguazu Falls blows them all away. Enjoy the pics.


Tranquil waters show no signs of the violent, impending drop