Breadbasket of the Andes

Andean Farmland, near Sucre


A few days ago we took a 35-minute flight from Sucre, Bolivia’s constitutional capitol, to Santa Cruz in lieu of the 20-hour bus ride. As soon as we were airborne, it was easy to see why there’s such a disproportion in the times of air vs. land travel. North-to-south-running parallel mountain chains stretch into the distance in all directions. Dirt roads snake across razorback ridges and down steep, eroded slopes. In between literally each ridge flows a waterway, ranging in size from the smallest mountain stream to raging river, each supporting a local agrarian community.


Like a giant accordian, parallel valleys stretch into the distance, each cradling a waterway.



A wider valley containing several plots of land



The Andes fade into the Lowlands, dumping out dozens of rivers to slowly wander the fertile plains


In a land that’s notorious for being the “poorest” country in South America, there’s a noticeable lack of destitution. Venture into the mountains and you find no mansions, no McDonalds, no SUVs rollin’ 22s. What you do find are different types of wealth—agricultural wealth, cultural wealth, environmental wealth—and no one appears to be in want of the essential ingredients for a happy life—shelter, sustenance, and liberty.


Maize is the most popular crop in the areas surrounding Sucre



A farmer delineating his or her squash field with brambles



High-mountain farming. Because of the distance to large markets, the majority of crops are stored and traded in local indigenous communities.


On a recent trip through the mountains near Sucre, each vista presented rich farmland sweeping into the distance. I kept thinking of Thomas Jefferson’s vision of the Americas. His outspoken admiration of the Yeoman Farmer helped to shape the United States as an agricultural nation. Of course, most campesinos (small farmers) in this region lack an essential quality of Jefferson´s ideal Yeoman, which is an education, at least in the Western sense. A local farmer may be able to walk you through a high-Andean field and pick out 20 different plants to use in cooking or herbal medicine, but ask him or her about civics or regional economics and the conversation will likely flop. This may be changing. Now with an indigenous president, a former coca farmer who should understand more than any past president the plight of the indigenous farmer, Bolivia has an opportunity to revive its agricultural class and shift from subsistence farming to a strong agricultural export economy.


Wakatao (sic?), a local herb similar to rosemary used to spice potatos



The kiwi-like fruit of a local cactus



Taku-taku, a sweet bean pod that is chewed on as a snack


This argument, however, assumes that the people want to participate in a global market. At the moment, they grow their own food, trade with local farmers for other essentials, and live relatively removed from global society (other than the occasional tourist). Opening this Pandora’s box would expose traditional societies to potentially harmful elements of Westernism, primarily materialism and classism.

For thousands of years, pockets of civilization have matured and died in Bolivia’s highlands. Now peering down from the air, it’s easy to see why small, local populations were able to remain culturally isolated, a fact supported by the 36 languages spoken throughout the region. In a rapidly globalizing economy, Bolivians are going to have to decide whether or not to participate and potentially endanger their cultural diversity and traditional lifestyles. Of course, there are other ways to become involved without abandoning the past. Many are riding the tourism wave, providing venues for eco-tourists and the culturally curious to learn about local ways of life.


Drinking Chicha, a traditional maize refreshment, with our adopted grandmother



Grind Stone



"We take care of the animals to maintain balance of the ecosystem"


If this sounds like your cup of tea then Bolivia is the place to explore. But you better hurry. As Bolivian politics shift further left, and President Morales implements social programs that increase ties to other socialist governments in Latin America, a rift is threatening to divide the nation. Several eastern provinces, which control large agricultural, oil/gas, and timber industries, are calling for autonomous governance, citing disapproval with taxation and nationalization of industries. Talks are currently underway that could potentially unify or further disrupt national politics. Growing pains are evident, but Bolivia has a strong backbone. Containing both the Altiplano, breadbasket of the high Andes, and the fertile eastern lowlands, it’s a rich land that has potential to grow into a large player in the agricultural and natural resource market. The quandary facing the people is whether they want to continue regional and political isolationism or step into the global arena.