Breadbasket of the Andes

Andean Farmland, near Sucre


A few days ago we took a 35-minute flight from Sucre, Bolivia’s constitutional capitol, to Santa Cruz in lieu of the 20-hour bus ride. As soon as we were airborne, it was easy to see why there’s such a disproportion in the times of air vs. land travel. North-to-south-running parallel mountain chains stretch into the distance in all directions. Dirt roads snake across razorback ridges and down steep, eroded slopes. In between literally each ridge flows a waterway, ranging in size from the smallest mountain stream to raging river, each supporting a local agrarian community.


Like a giant accordian, parallel valleys stretch into the distance, each cradling a waterway.



A wider valley containing several plots of land



The Andes fade into the Lowlands, dumping out dozens of rivers to slowly wander the fertile plains


In a land that’s notorious for being the “poorest” country in South America, there’s a noticeable lack of destitution. Venture into the mountains and you find no mansions, no McDonalds, no SUVs rollin’ 22s. What you do find are different types of wealth—agricultural wealth, cultural wealth, environmental wealth—and no one appears to be in want of the essential ingredients for a happy life—shelter, sustenance, and liberty.


Maize is the most popular crop in the areas surrounding Sucre



A farmer delineating his or her squash field with brambles



High-mountain farming. Because of the distance to large markets, the majority of crops are stored and traded in local indigenous communities.


On a recent trip through the mountains near Sucre, each vista presented rich farmland sweeping into the distance. I kept thinking of Thomas Jefferson’s vision of the Americas. His outspoken admiration of the Yeoman Farmer helped to shape the United States as an agricultural nation. Of course, most campesinos (small farmers) in this region lack an essential quality of Jefferson´s ideal Yeoman, which is an education, at least in the Western sense. A local farmer may be able to walk you through a high-Andean field and pick out 20 different plants to use in cooking or herbal medicine, but ask him or her about civics or regional economics and the conversation will likely flop. This may be changing. Now with an indigenous president, a former coca farmer who should understand more than any past president the plight of the indigenous farmer, Bolivia has an opportunity to revive its agricultural class and shift from subsistence farming to a strong agricultural export economy.


Wakatao (sic?), a local herb similar to rosemary used to spice potatos



The kiwi-like fruit of a local cactus



Taku-taku, a sweet bean pod that is chewed on as a snack


This argument, however, assumes that the people want to participate in a global market. At the moment, they grow their own food, trade with local farmers for other essentials, and live relatively removed from global society (other than the occasional tourist). Opening this Pandora’s box would expose traditional societies to potentially harmful elements of Westernism, primarily materialism and classism.

For thousands of years, pockets of civilization have matured and died in Bolivia’s highlands. Now peering down from the air, it’s easy to see why small, local populations were able to remain culturally isolated, a fact supported by the 36 languages spoken throughout the region. In a rapidly globalizing economy, Bolivians are going to have to decide whether or not to participate and potentially endanger their cultural diversity and traditional lifestyles. Of course, there are other ways to become involved without abandoning the past. Many are riding the tourism wave, providing venues for eco-tourists and the culturally curious to learn about local ways of life.


Drinking Chicha, a traditional maize refreshment, with our adopted grandmother



Grind Stone



"We take care of the animals to maintain balance of the ecosystem"


If this sounds like your cup of tea then Bolivia is the place to explore. But you better hurry. As Bolivian politics shift further left, and President Morales implements social programs that increase ties to other socialist governments in Latin America, a rift is threatening to divide the nation. Several eastern provinces, which control large agricultural, oil/gas, and timber industries, are calling for autonomous governance, citing disapproval with taxation and nationalization of industries. Talks are currently underway that could potentially unify or further disrupt national politics. Growing pains are evident, but Bolivia has a strong backbone. Containing both the Altiplano, breadbasket of the high Andes, and the fertile eastern lowlands, it’s a rich land that has potential to grow into a large player in the agricultural and natural resource market. The quandary facing the people is whether they want to continue regional and political isolationism or step into the global arena.

The Atacameños

The San Pedro River Valley, home to the Atacameños


The Atacameños are an indigenous people local to the San Pedro River valley, which flows through the driest desert in the world, the Atacama. For thousands of years they farmed this valley, until the arrival of foreign invaders who threatened their way of life. Today, many relatively recent ruins can be visited throughout the region and mummies are on display in San Pedro's museum.

From a sign at Pukara de Quitor (from Quechua: "Quitor Fortress"), a fortified city built on the banks of the San Pedro River to defend against successive invasions of Inca and Spanish conquistadors:

"Atacameños were cattle breeders, farmers, and warriors who defended bravely and fiercely their territories, they were organized at Pukara de Quitor to oppose resistance to the european invader who found people rose in arms no matter the defeats suffered they could resist during twenty years.

"In 1557 a peace treaty was reached which evolved in the surrender of atacameños people. This was the starting point of the adoptions of another culture process of the atacameños ethnic group who couldn't face the deep impact because most of them were baptized with christian names and even Ayllos were changed from the 17th century on the power of spanish magistrates was strengthen and the organization of old Ayllos was restablished because they proved to be very efficient."


Pukara de Quitor was built in a defensive position overlooking the river valley



The large precipice defending Pukara from the north



The dry wash giving Pukara a defensive advantage from the south



The San Pedro River's fertile shores


Around 1536, Spanish conquistadors appeared in the Atacama. Resisting other invasions, Atacameños had already built fortifications, from which they repelled Spanish attacks until 1540. At that time, the Spanish enlisted the help of freed slaves of the Inca to break the defenses of Pukara de Quitor.

Aside from adopting Christianity, Atacameños have retained their identity and culture despite several regional power shifts. When Bolivia claimed independence from Peru in 1825, San Pedro fell under Bolivian control. In 1888, Chile annexed the region by force. In recent times the area has been flooded with foreign tourists seeking a desert retreat. Though the 20th century brought westernization and challenges to land rights, Atacameños continue to farm the San Pedro River valley as their ancestors have done for thousands of years.


"My God, My God, why have you abandoned me?" - Psalm 22



Stone statue of an Atacameñan face



Stone statue of an Atacameñan face



Stone statue of an Atacameñan face



Stone statue of an Atacameñan face

A Potential "Top 5"

The classic volcano, Mt. Licancabur



Toconao River Gorge



Climb rated 5.8, Toconao Gorge



Toconao Gorge, where the locals grow fruits and maize



Climb rated 5.11, Toconao Gorge


The Andes form a very effective barrier against weather systems drifting off the Pacific Ocean; one resulting in a very dry interior. Having climbed off the coastal plain and crossed the frontal mountain range, the landscape opened up into a vast, barren flat ringed wiht sharp peaks. It was apparent, we were officially in the Chilean high desert.

Our bus rolled into san Pedro de Atacama in mid-afternoon. We had left the paved road dozens of miles back and wouldn´t see pavement again until leaving this dusty desert town. We unloaded into the dirt lot and immediately recognized the town´s charm--the narrow, dustry streets, simple adobe-style structures, and lack of automobile traffic (although there are few cars as it is in San Pedro, the main street is pedestrian-only). The plan, to spend one or two days here, was quickly altered.


Waxing up our boards for the first run



Shreddin' Some Sand



Textured Steps



Hiking the Ridge



A Different Way Up


Out of four days spent in this quaint tourist oasis, surrounded by opportunities for outdoor activity, it´s hard to choose a favorite. One day was spent sandboarding on nearby dunes, followed by a sunset stroll in the unearthly Valle de la Luna ("Valley of the Moon"). Outside of town is perfect for star-gazing, especially after the moon sets. The French astronomers who walked us through the souther hemisphere´s constellations were knowledgeable and humerous. One afternon, I mountain biked between ruins of indigenous Atacama peoples, who were forced to high, defensive villages during the subsequent invasions of the Inca and Spanish conquistadors. I passed my final, and arguably favorite, day climbing in a lush, stream-fed gorge near the town of Toconao.

For an outdoor junkie such as myself, San Pedro de Atacama is paradise. there are scores of opporunities to mountain bike, climb, mountaineer, hike, sandboard, and whatever else tickles your fancy. There´s even decent vegan food. Our last night we discovered a gourmet restaurant on par with any New York kitchen. Doubling our normal dinner budget, we dined on fungi in sauce made from a local nut served over quinoa, a delicious spinach soup, and vegetable curry--with potatoes, carrots, and diced eggplant--over rice. It was a rare treat that perfectly complimented our action-packed stop in the world´s driest desert.


The unearthly landscape of Valle de la Luna



Biking between ruins, trail turned to river



Sleepy morning air in San Pedrot


Because we´re on a limited time schedule, I couldn´t do it all. Given the liberty I glady would. From San Pedro´s bike-friendly, alley-sized dirt streets to the diverse natural wonders surrounding the string of indigenous towns--from salt flats to flowing dunes to crop-filled river valleys to towering volcanos--the Atacama Desert was a surprising delight. Originally just a brief stop on the road to Bolivia, San Pedro has potentially become one of the Top 5 Coolest Towns in South America.


A handcrafted arch frames Licancabur at a local ruin. The volcano holds an important position in indigenous lore. Another arch opposite the volcano frames a recently built cross.



Looking up at the local tribute to Christianity



Volcano Licancabur and his little brother reflecting the sunset above San Pedro's streets



Gourmet Veg Curry with Quinoa, US$10 (with spinach soup and fruit salad)

Pirates, Catholics, and Fishermen! OH MY!

Coquimbo Fish Market



Fishing vessels lined up in Coquimbo´s harbor



Interesting statue in one of Coquimbo´s squares


La Serena, like most coastal towns in Chile, has a lot of history. At one time it served as a garrison for Spanish troops as they marched between Santiago and areas further north. La Serena’s old Catholic churches, of which there are 27, were frequently attacked and burned by marauding pirates over the centuries. Today, it´s the quiet backdrop to a large, popular beach, which reportedly draws hundreds of Chileans and Argentinians during the summer months.

We ended up here by circumstance. Melissa’s friend from Tucson has family here. For two days Skip and Mary treated us like family—giving us a place to sleep, touring us around the area, feeding us some of the best (home cooked!) food we’ve eaten in South America, and introducing us to their nephew, Cristian, who drove us around to all the major sights.

Nearby Coquimbo is a small port city. At time of visit, it had several fishing boats and a lone cargo ship moored in the bay. Above it all sits the Millennium Cross, built by the Catholic Church to commemorate the 2000 birthday of Christ. Ironically, the cross was built right in the middle of Coquimbo’s slums (packed with Palestinian immigrants, who defiantly erected a mosque in the cross’ shadow). I’m sure the billions of dollars spent on this expression of devotion to the teachings of Christ could have built homes for thousands of poor families. Instead, you can ride an elevator up the cross’ shaft and look out over the slums while browsing the life-sized bronze busts of cardinals and popes.

After, we drove over to a hill overlooking a secluded baby. Rumor has it that pirates used this area as a hideout and shelter several centuries ago. The claim is supported by a huge statue of Sir Francis Drake that has since been defaced and re-dedicated to the fishermen of Coquimbo, supposedly after locals grew weary of pirate attacks. Even so, the local population seems to retain a bit of rebellious sentiment, honoring pirate culture in restaurants and shops.


Pirate Bay



Sir Francis Drake´s statue towers above Coquimbo. The plaque has been ripped off and replaced with a sign honoring local fishermen.



"Fire!" (photo by Melissa Meyer)


The next day we were surprised when Skip offered to take us on a small airplane flight. We drove over to his air club where the Cessna 182 was parked. He gave us an option—coast or valley. We opted for the latter and hopped in. Leaving La Serena we cruised, 3000´ high, up the valley. In the distance we could see astronomical observatories crowning peaks and a patchwork of farmland below. Twenty minutes later we were flying over Vicunya, an idyllic country town surrounded by grape and avocado farms. We circled Vicunya and headed back. One thing I noticed from the air was all the roads and tracks criss-crossing the hills. Apparently off-roading and mountain biking are popular with the locals.


Skip readying the Cessna



Bird´s eye view of the river valley east of La Serena. The light green plants leading up into the hills are grapes grown to produce Pisco, the local fire water.



The idyllic country town of Vicunya, surrounded by farmland



A private astronomical observatory crowns a nearby peak. The clear desert air in this region offers unobstructed views of the night sky.


Back in La Serena we enjoyed another delicious home-cooked meal, watched Chile beat Peru in soccer, 3-1 (a heated match due to political emotions over Peru´s claim to part of the Chilean coast), and prepared to leave for San Pedro de Atacama the next day.

We were sad to leave, mainly because we were eating so well. We can´t thank Skip, Mary, and Cristian enough. Their hospitality made La Serena a stop with all the comforts of home on our hostel-filled trek.


One of our awesome vegan homemade meals, with traditional (and delicious) Chilean bean soup and corn cake.



Cristian playing some Sublime while Black Kitty Kitty grooves on his shoulder



The Palestinean owner of a seaside falafel shop wouldn´t accept a tip, so I inscribed an 1000 peso note with Arabic poetry.



Yet another awesome homemade vegan meal with veggie lasagna, fries, and fresh vegetables (and more corn cake! my favorite)



Our gracious hosts, Skip and Mary