Egypt Then and Now: A 5-Year Hiatus

Looking across the Nile Valley to Giza


Landing in Cairo in the middle of the night can be both a blessing and a curse. On one hand, you fly through the streets with the cab windows down, free from the oppressive Egyptian sun and annoying honks and back-ups that accompany daytime traffic. On the other hand, it fails to prepare you for the chaos of an awakened Cairo. But I knew what awaited us the following day--a locust storm of people, vehicles, and dry dust--and thoroughly enjoyed the tranquil cab ride from airport to downtown (with a slight detour thanks to the honorable, paranoid President Mubarak who closed all the roads surrounding his palace).

Walking through the crowded streets the following day I was forced to eat a few of my words. In preparation for the trip, Melissa had half-jokingly asked about wearing a niqab, the traditional Muslim face covering, to avoid being heckled in the streets, a nearly unavoidable result of being a good looking Caucasian female. I full-heartedly rejected the idea on grounds that, while the niqab is prominent in rural Egypt, it's rarely worn in the touristed areas of Cairo. Yet, as soon as we stepped outside the tally began, and continued until I was forced to admit that the niqab has become a common sight in all areas of Cairo.

When I left Egypt in 2004, people were talking about a resurgence of strict Muslim tradition amongst all layers of Egyptian society. Until I witnessed the newfound prevalence of the most conservative female Muslim dress, I didn't believe it. Perhaps it's simply that females feel more comfortable sheltered from the scrutinizing eye of the Egyptian male, but the added annoyance alone would have to be great to justify cloaking one's self in all black under the smothering heat of Cairo summer. More likely is the popularization of rejecting everything Western in favor of returning to Muslim tradition. Many Muslims perceive that their society was more dignified and globally influential in its historical heyday when stricter social guidelines were followed. Therefore, returning to those conservative ideals will guide the Muslim World to a heightened global position. This transformation, spanning decades, has been fueled by the last 8 years of western politics. It's an understandable phenomenon in light of how much our past administration and its allies rejected the Middle East's collective identity when forming Middle East policies.

Take for example the Gaza elections in 2005, in which Hamas (considered a "terrorist group" by many western nations including the United States and Israel) received 2/3 of the contested seats. This political experiment, pushed heavily by the Bush administration, backfired on western nations hoping for democratic reform, when what they meant by "democratic reform" was adoption of western-style governance. Historically in Islam, however, there is no separation of church and state. When the Islamic parties increase their overall popularity by implementing social welfare programs with much more efficiency than the current government, and come to power through fair democratic elections, the result is an Islamization of government. It's yet to be seen whether Egypt's transformation will reach this point, or if the current, self-preserving administration will be allowed to continue its authoritative control over politics. Regardless, it's a significant change considering that Egypt is one of the Middle East's most westernized nations.


Muhammad 'Ali Mosque, Cairo



Pyramids of Giza



Minarets of al-Azhar and Al-Hussein mosques, Cairo


Another change that will undoubtedly be beneficial in the long-term is a new government aid program to help replace the antiquated, exhaust spewing taxis with new reduced omissions vehicles. Under the new initiative, a taxi driver is given a certain amount for a down payment in exchange for the old vehicle. Then, advertising space is rented on the cab's interior to help with monthly payments. There are a relative few who have taken the offer, but it's a good start to improving air quality in one of the world's most polluted cities.


Islamic Cairo, looking towards Sultan Hassan and Muhammad 'Ali mosques



Al-Azhar's Court



Train arriving for Luxor



River Taxi in Luxor



Valley of the Kings, Luxor



Night at Luxor Temple



A ruin spanning three civilizations: the original temple was built by New Kingdom pharaohs, the archway was closed and flanked by columns by the Romans, and Coptic Christians covered the pharaonic glyphs with plaster.



When this mosque was built on top of the Luxor Temple ruins, the ground level was nearly 5 meters higher, evidenced by the door now open to a drop. Much of the Luxor Temple was preserved by being buried in Nile silt.



Morning at Karnak, before the oppressive heat and crowds



World's Largest Columnated Hall, Karnak Temple, Luxor



Columnated Hall, Karnak


A less welcomed change is the preference of Euro over US dollar. With the combined strength of the European economy, and uncertainty in the future of the US market, it's easy to see why an Egyptian would prefer to deal in a stronger currency that's becoming more popular globally. Still, when I'm constantly reminded of our faltering market caused by a greedy, manipulative system back home, my American sense can't help but be offended. That being said, I don't like being quoted in US dollars either. Transactions should be solely in the local currency. From Cairo to Upper Egypt to the Delta to Sinai, there's no standardization of currencies used by hotels, tour agencies, dive centers, and various other vendors. It's annoying to continually deal with daily conversion rates, or worse, to be charged a penalty by converting the foreign currency rates to Egyptian pounds at an unfair exchange rate set by the vendor. If the idea is to encourage the use of stronger foreign currency, which is beneficial to a weaker economy, then discounts should be given when paying with foreign currencies rather than penalties issued when paying with Egyptian pounds.

Despite this annoyance, touring Egypt is better today than it was five years ago. There have been significant improvements to tourist sites in terms of better infrastructure and less hassle. In 2004, I nearly got into a fight with an aggressive trinket seller at the Pyramids of Giza who was harassing my father. Last year a wall was built around the complex that keeps the hordes at bay. The vendors privileged enough to be let in are more tempered to avoid losing that privilege. Similar systems have been instituted in Luxor and Aswan to ensure that tourists are able to enjoy the awe-inspiring sites hassle free. Each site has also been outfitted with an air-conditioned tourist center (necessary down south during the Nubian summer) complete with small-scale model of the ruins/tombs/temples/etc. It lends a new perspective to the huge pillars and stone structures that dwarf the largest of men.


Morning in Aswan



Hieroglyphics on Elphantine Island, Aswan



West Bank, Aswan



"Which way to the Pyramids?"



Christian Monastery, West Bank, Aswan



Despite the 120F temperatures outside, it was still cool inside the monastery's living quarters.



Monastic living quarters



"Give us a kiss."



Bread Vendor in Aswan



Nile Sunrise



This unfinished obelisk in the Aswan granite quarry would have been the largest single piece of transported stone sculpture in the ancient world. It was abandoned when a large crack appeared on the face.



Umayyad Tombs (8th century AD) in Aswan



First Cataract of the Nile, Aswan



Corniche at night, Alexandria



Qaitbay Castle, an Ottoman-era harbor defense, Alexandria


Last but not least on our tour of Egypt was Dahab, my old stomping ground in the Sinai peninsula. In 2004, Dahab was a little hippie town where days were spent floating amongst the Red Sea's prolific and colorful aquatic life, and lounging lazily in the dozens of homogeneous seaside cafes. Little, if any, has changed. It's a welcomed consolation that in a country constantly being developed and molded around the tourist economy while trying to balance it's ancient Egyptian, Muslim, and more recent western identities, there are still places that time has forgotten.


Lighthouse Bay, Dahab



Sunrise on Mt. Sinai



Mt. Sinai Taxis



Ras Muhammad National Park, Sinai



Ras Muhammad National Park, Sinai

From Quest to Quandary: Buddhism and Islam

Youngpyeungsa Temple


Shortly after arriving in Korea I was made aware of a “temple stay” program that’s promoted and run by the Templestay Division of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. Perhaps because it’s one of the few things a tourist can do in South Korea, and partially because it’s also a good cultural experience, it’s touted as a “must-do” for visitors and expats alike.


The revered lotus flower


We’d been meaning to go ever since I landed in Seoul roughly a month prior. Last weekend was finally our chance. First by subway, then by a number of bus transfers we arrived at our destination--Youngpyungsa temple. Nestled in the smokey hills two hours south of Seoul, Youngpyungsa is renowned for its fields of white flowers, chestnut orchards, and lotus flower tea. It doesn’t receive large crowds like many other temples, partially due to the humility of its temple stay host who insists that the temple be listed with “limited translation services” despite his rather firm command of English. Mr. Jang, as he preferred to be called, picked us up from a local bus stop and took the short ride to the temple as an opportunity to enrich our understanding of the local scene.


Demonstrating how to make lotus flower tea


After all of the seven guests were present and fitted with modest robes we began touring the idyllic grounds. First to the main temple for a description of the murals detailing the life of Buddha and his enlightenment, followed by the revered lotus gardens. Mr. Jang explained the basic tenets and philosophies that form Buddhism as we reveled in the beautiful paintings and architecture. It seemed that everything I was experiencing was unfamiliar and mysterious, leading to more contemplation than understanding. That is until it was time to pray.

First we formed lines with small mats at our feet. Initiated by a chanter, we bowed to 45 degrees then back to standing; fell prostrate to elbows and knees with forehead touching the ground; raised our hands to our ears; then sat back onto our feet before standing and repeating the process. As some may have noticed, this is incredibly similar to prostration in Islam.

My amazement and wonder was soon replaced with intense curiosity. From no previous research or conversation had I ever heard about a connection between Buddhism and Islam, but it did make sense. Buddhism spread out of northern India to other areas of south Asia. Large Buddhist statues defiled by religious extremists in Afghanistan evidence the influence that Buddhism once held in these regions.

After further contemplation I recalled a story from Ibn Ishaq’s Sirat Rasul Allah (Life of Muhammad) in which Muhammad (PBUH) accompanied his uncle and caretaker, Abu Talib, to the Levant, training as a merchant. Later, after marrying Khadijah, Muhammad (PBUH) managed his merchant wife’s trade journeys to the Levant. One of the western-most land routes of the spice trade terminated in what is now Syria/Lebanon. It’s certainly possible that Muhammad (PBUH) was exposed to Buddhist prayer in the Levant and later adapted it to Islam.

Other than prayer form itself there is one other slight similarity between the two religions. Every evening Jogye Buddhists perform 108 prostrations, each one admonishing one of the 108 vices. Performing this daily reminds the Buddhist to conduct his or her life in a manner congruous with religious teachings. Islam has what are called the 99 Names of Allah, each one exhibiting one of God’s traits that should be emulated by the Muslim to draw nearer to Him. The similarity between these two practices isn’t as striking as the skeletal structure of prayer, but I found it interesting.


Two nearly identical lilies emerge from the dark pond below. Task at hand is to discover what's under the opaque surface.


So now I face this vexing question looming above me. What is the connection between Jogye Buddhism and Islam? Did these two nearly identical forms of prostration develop independently? Do they both follow a more ancient form of prostration? Primary research revealed Korea Buddhism's trek from south Asia to China, then to Korea. It’s a start. I’m in the process of obtaining a translation of the 108 prayers, which may offer some insight. Yet, I’m more interested in the possible human connection between Islam’s Prophet (PBUH) and Buddhist merchants. Does it exist? If anyone can point towards a resource with even a brief mention of Muhammad (PBUH) and Buddhist traders or teachers, please email or leave a comment.