The classic volcano, Mt. Licancabur
Toconao River Gorge
Climb rated 5.8, Toconao Gorge
Toconao Gorge, where the locals grow fruits and maize
Climb rated 5.11, Toconao Gorge
The Andes form a very effective barrier against weather systems drifting off the Pacific Ocean; one resulting in a very dry interior. Having climbed off the coastal plain and crossed the frontal mountain range, the landscape opened up into a vast, barren flat ringed wiht sharp peaks. It was apparent, we were officially in the Chilean high desert.
Our bus rolled into san Pedro de Atacama in mid-afternoon. We had left the paved road dozens of miles back and wouldn´t see pavement again until leaving this dusty desert town. We unloaded into the dirt lot and immediately recognized the town´s charm--the narrow, dustry streets, simple adobe-style structures, and lack of automobile traffic (although there are few cars as it is in San Pedro, the main street is pedestrian-only). The plan, to spend one or two days here, was quickly altered.
Waxing up our boards for the first run
Shreddin' Some Sand
Textured Steps
Hiking the Ridge
A Different Way Up
Out of four days spent in this quaint tourist oasis, surrounded by opportunities for outdoor activity, it´s hard to choose a favorite. One day was spent sandboarding on nearby dunes, followed by a sunset stroll in the unearthly Valle de la Luna ("Valley of the Moon"). Outside of town is perfect for star-gazing, especially after the moon sets. The French astronomers who walked us through the souther hemisphere´s constellations were knowledgeable and humerous. One afternon, I mountain biked between ruins of indigenous Atacama peoples, who were forced to high, defensive villages during the subsequent invasions of the Inca and Spanish conquistadors. I passed my final, and arguably favorite, day climbing in a lush, stream-fed gorge near the town of Toconao.
For an outdoor junkie such as myself, San Pedro de Atacama is paradise. there are scores of opporunities to mountain bike, climb, mountaineer, hike, sandboard, and whatever else tickles your fancy. There´s even decent vegan food. Our last night we discovered a gourmet restaurant on par with any New York kitchen. Doubling our normal dinner budget, we dined on fungi in sauce made from a local nut served over quinoa, a delicious spinach soup, and vegetable curry--with potatoes, carrots, and diced eggplant--over rice. It was a rare treat that perfectly complimented our action-packed stop in the world´s driest desert.
The unearthly landscape of Valle de la Luna
Biking between ruins, trail turned to river
Sleepy morning air in San Pedrot
Because we´re on a limited time schedule, I couldn´t do it all. Given the liberty I glady would. From San Pedro´s bike-friendly, alley-sized dirt streets to the diverse natural wonders surrounding the string of indigenous towns--from salt flats to flowing dunes to crop-filled river valleys to towering volcanos--the Atacama Desert was a surprising delight. Originally just a brief stop on the road to Bolivia, San Pedro has potentially become one of the Top 5 Coolest Towns in South America.
A handcrafted arch frames Licancabur at a local ruin. The volcano holds an important position in indigenous lore. Another arch opposite the volcano frames a recently built cross.
Looking up at the local tribute to Christianity
Volcano Licancabur and his little brother reflecting the sunset above San Pedro's streets
Gourmet Veg Curry with Quinoa, US$10 (with spinach soup and fruit salad)
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