Traveling Homeless

I’m sitting here in another hotel room, the third in two weeks. It’s raining outside. Last night I stopped at the climbing gym before checking in. It feels more like home... less confining... with social contact, the climberhood of the rock. After driving several hours, in the rain, it was nice to spread my wings and boulder. When everyone had gone home to their beds, I was forced to retreat to my dark hovel. I don’t feel sorry, though. I chose this lifestyle--constantly moving from place to place exploring, searching for, if nothing else, what constitutes happiness. In that I’ve been somewhat successful. I’ve identified key components such as climbing (indoor or out), a great vegan meal, This American Life, all activities where in the moment nothing else matters. I’m here on this earth having a good time.


Bouldering at Coopers Rock, WV - photo by Rian Landers



Bouldering at Coopers Rock, WV - photo by Laura Bussolini


Driving several hundred miles and several hours has become unfazingly common. For entertainment I search the lower bands of FM radio for NPR stations. If not available then I usually wrap my headphones around my ears and play a podcast--Wait, Wait, Don’t Tell Me, This American Life, al-Minbar al-Hurr (a German Radio Program in Arabic)--which forces my mind to wander through the realm of thought and away from the monotonous mile after mile of freeway.

This trip it was a This American Life episode on “Fear of Sleep”. Several interviewees recounted experiences that either, through trauma, contributed to sleeplessness or, through science, explained it. Lately it seems that the shows producers are experimenting with the format, including a comedy skit as one of the acts. This episode it was Mike Birbiglia, a (formerly) sleepless comedian who retells his comedic nighttime experiences through his sketch, “Sleepwalk With Me”. Several other narratives involved roaches, bed bugs, faulty dopamine producers, and anxiety. Fortunately, I’ve never been a victim of severe sleeplessness, thus can’t relate. About the closest experience I've had is reportedly trying to smash my fingers repeatedly in a closet door while sleep walking. Nevertheless, the show is a window into the lives of compatriots, lending greater insight into what it is to be both an American and, more generally, a human being.

As the show played on I couldn’t help but peek into adjacent vehicles and wonder about the lives of my freeway companions. Most plates were local, but the occasional through traveler was sighted. I started to wonder about their lives, where they were going, what they were doing, if they were happy, how they passed their time on this giant concrete funnel. From most vehicles little can be discerned about the occupants’ lives. But there is the occasional military or political bumper sticker off which lifestyle sketches may be drawn.

What I was most concerned about at this particular point was the relationship between concern and anxiety. In my case I do not lack concern or live a carefree life, but I never bother being anxious because anxiety is not action but a constant state of worry about some future action or occurrence. It’s very possible that anxiousness could cause a person to overlook the correct action that would alleviate his or her source of worry. It seems to me that in our society there is an emphasis on anxiousness as a companion to concern, rather than a mishandling of concern. It made me question which side is more crazy, the anxious worrier or the insouciant drifter.

When I finished with my mental version of This American Life, I turned to al-Minbar al-Hurr. This episode involved a discussion between Middle East “experts” in Europe about which direction Mauritania should proceed in the wake of its latest failed democratic experiment, which ended in a military coup. One side believed that the former president, Sidi Ould Cheikh Abdallahi, should be reinstated until economic and security stability is reached, at which point the country would be ready for the democratic process. Another argued that no past systems could be relied upon because Mauritania’s past is saturated with institutional stigmas such as nepotism, favoritism, and classism. He favored a form of military rule until a new election could be held. After a while I drifted into a sea of thoughts, mulling over all the world’s nascent democratic experiments and what they all share in common. It seems to me that many of the countries attempting democratic reforms are simply not ready; it’s being forced upon them. Forcing an old world country to democratize is much like taking an American first grader with ADD and forcing him to meditate. Meditation is a gateway to Enlightenment just as the democratic process is a pathway to individual freedom. Yet, even if the first grader has been told that meditation is good, he does not understand why he should meditate, nor does he possess the capacity. In the same way, one cannot be forced to participate in a democratic process if he or she does not understand individual freedom. Most old world cultures lack individual identity, much less freedom, relying instead on social class and/or tribal, national, or religious identity. Where these mentalities are present democracy is prone to failure.

After a few days in this hotel I’ll be headed to yet another temporary residence. And what move wouldn’t be complete without a several hour long drive? I’m comforted knowing that wherever I go there will always be something to climb, great vegan food to be sought out, and more entertaining episodes of my roadway companion programs. If not, I’ll be moving on soon as you can say, “Democratize Now”. Now it’s lights out in this hovel. This traveling homeless is hittin’ the sack.


Tent City at Coopers Rock, WV - photo by Rian Landers

From Quest to Quandary: Buddhism and Islam

Youngpyeungsa Temple


Shortly after arriving in Korea I was made aware of a “temple stay” program that’s promoted and run by the Templestay Division of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. Perhaps because it’s one of the few things a tourist can do in South Korea, and partially because it’s also a good cultural experience, it’s touted as a “must-do” for visitors and expats alike.


The revered lotus flower


We’d been meaning to go ever since I landed in Seoul roughly a month prior. Last weekend was finally our chance. First by subway, then by a number of bus transfers we arrived at our destination--Youngpyungsa temple. Nestled in the smokey hills two hours south of Seoul, Youngpyungsa is renowned for its fields of white flowers, chestnut orchards, and lotus flower tea. It doesn’t receive large crowds like many other temples, partially due to the humility of its temple stay host who insists that the temple be listed with “limited translation services” despite his rather firm command of English. Mr. Jang, as he preferred to be called, picked us up from a local bus stop and took the short ride to the temple as an opportunity to enrich our understanding of the local scene.


Demonstrating how to make lotus flower tea


After all of the seven guests were present and fitted with modest robes we began touring the idyllic grounds. First to the main temple for a description of the murals detailing the life of Buddha and his enlightenment, followed by the revered lotus gardens. Mr. Jang explained the basic tenets and philosophies that form Buddhism as we reveled in the beautiful paintings and architecture. It seemed that everything I was experiencing was unfamiliar and mysterious, leading to more contemplation than understanding. That is until it was time to pray.

First we formed lines with small mats at our feet. Initiated by a chanter, we bowed to 45 degrees then back to standing; fell prostrate to elbows and knees with forehead touching the ground; raised our hands to our ears; then sat back onto our feet before standing and repeating the process. As some may have noticed, this is incredibly similar to prostration in Islam.

My amazement and wonder was soon replaced with intense curiosity. From no previous research or conversation had I ever heard about a connection between Buddhism and Islam, but it did make sense. Buddhism spread out of northern India to other areas of south Asia. Large Buddhist statues defiled by religious extremists in Afghanistan evidence the influence that Buddhism once held in these regions.

After further contemplation I recalled a story from Ibn Ishaq’s Sirat Rasul Allah (Life of Muhammad) in which Muhammad (PBUH) accompanied his uncle and caretaker, Abu Talib, to the Levant, training as a merchant. Later, after marrying Khadijah, Muhammad (PBUH) managed his merchant wife’s trade journeys to the Levant. One of the western-most land routes of the spice trade terminated in what is now Syria/Lebanon. It’s certainly possible that Muhammad (PBUH) was exposed to Buddhist prayer in the Levant and later adapted it to Islam.

Other than prayer form itself there is one other slight similarity between the two religions. Every evening Jogye Buddhists perform 108 prostrations, each one admonishing one of the 108 vices. Performing this daily reminds the Buddhist to conduct his or her life in a manner congruous with religious teachings. Islam has what are called the 99 Names of Allah, each one exhibiting one of God’s traits that should be emulated by the Muslim to draw nearer to Him. The similarity between these two practices isn’t as striking as the skeletal structure of prayer, but I found it interesting.


Two nearly identical lilies emerge from the dark pond below. Task at hand is to discover what's under the opaque surface.


So now I face this vexing question looming above me. What is the connection between Jogye Buddhism and Islam? Did these two nearly identical forms of prostration develop independently? Do they both follow a more ancient form of prostration? Primary research revealed Korea Buddhism's trek from south Asia to China, then to Korea. It’s a start. I’m in the process of obtaining a translation of the 108 prayers, which may offer some insight. Yet, I’m more interested in the possible human connection between Islam’s Prophet (PBUH) and Buddhist merchants. Does it exist? If anyone can point towards a resource with even a brief mention of Muhammad (PBUH) and Buddhist traders or teachers, please email or leave a comment.

The Latest Blunder: de-Sunnification in Iraq

I usually try to steer clear of political commentary. For the most part the field is filled with intellectual masturbators whose specialties are rhetoric and debate rather than intellectual, informed, and, most importantly, logical discussion. However, an article posted today on NYtimes.com has infuriated my senses and led to a feeling of utter frustration. I had to comment.

The article covers the polemical discussion on the way forward for Iraq. It’s titled, “Iraq Takes Aim at Leaders of U.S.-Tied Sunni Groups”. For the past two years there has been a growing movement of Sunni leaders using their community ties to battle against extremist groups. Wikipedia describes the purpose that these coalitions serve, “Awakening movements in Iraq are coalitions between tribal Sheikhs in a particular province in Iraq that unite to ensure security.” Before 2006, the United States military and Iraqi security forces were battling uphill in the rain towards their goal of establishing local security. When these local religious leaders began banding together to quell violence, it brought a ray of sunlight onto the battlefield. Since that time, the Awakening movements have gained increased momentum and brought attacks in some areas to a halt. So why is the Iraqi government now attempting to disband the very groups that have given Iraqi and US forces more operability by allowing them to focus on building security infrastructure rather than fighting an endless battle against religious extremism?

The article’s opening sentence relays one of the major concerns, “The Shiite-dominated government in Iraq is driving out many leaders of Sunni citizen patrols, the groups of former insurgents who joined the American payroll and have been a major pillar in the decline in violence around the nation.” Two very important sections of that sentence tell the real tale, “Shiite-dominated government” and “groups of former insurgents”. These two opposing factions are polarized on several fronts--religious ideology, legal practice, and historical ethnic conflict to name a few. Why should they trust each other?

Iraq’s Shi’ite majority has every reason to be skeptical. Sunni leaders who have opposed the new Iraqi government since its inception are now finding themselves in positions of political leverage. As the article states, “...Awakening members are eager to translate their influence and organization on the ground into political power.” It’s a legitimate concern, that these former members of extremist groups--including Al-Qaeda in Mesopotamia--will be in positions of political power. But the Iraqi government should learn from past mistakes of disenfranchising military or militia leaders. De-Ba’athification (removal of political and military leaders loyal to the former regime) left thousands unemployed. Many military professionals whose past political ties left them no place in the new Iraq were forced to seek employment with extremist groups. Whether or not they were ideologically opposed to the new power structure, they were given no other option to support their families. The same dynamic occurred with Shi’a religious leader Muqtada al-Sadr’s followers. When Sadr’s faction was barred from participating in the al-Maliki government, his militias were given incentive to take security concerns into their own hands. If the Awakening movements are disbanded then at least some of those militia members who are now helping the situation will once again become part of the problem. This is confirmed by Abu Azzam, a political leader in the Awakening movement, “Part of [the Awakening militia members] will fight the government if they are not recruited into the security forces.” A senior military spokesman echoes this sentiment, “If [diminution of the Awakening coalition] is not handled properly, we could have a security issue...You don’t want to give anybody a reason to turn back to Al Qaeda.” Iraq cannot move upward when it keeps tripping on the same step.

Yet, the Iraqi government has no intention of acknowledging the Awakening movement’s members. Statements by Iraq’s politicians, quoted in the article, make their stance very clear:

“The state cannot accept the Awakening,” said Sheik Jalaladeen al-Sagheer, a leading Shiite member of Parliament. “Their days are numbered.”

An even more biting conviction from an Iraqi Army commander ordered to round up Awakening leaders conveys the government’s attitude towards the coalition, “These people are like cancer, and we must remove them.”

Emotions like these have understandably led to severe frustration of US military efforts. For months, the US has been building up these militias to provide local security. If control is handed over to the Iraqi government, which to be fair it should since the Iraqi government is ultimately responsible for providing security, there’s a real danger that the past two years of effort will be devitalized, or even become obsolete. Iraq cannot afford such blunder, nor can we.

The US must make every diplomatic effort to ensure that the Awakening movement’s members are not disenfranchised. If modern Iraq is to remain one state--and one could make a strong argument here for federalization--then all political players must be given a chance to express their thoughts and concerns. Continued suppression of factions or ideologies in lieu of logical discussion will inevitably lead to further conflict. In this global era Iraqi government leaders cannot dismiss non-state actors on grounds of past indiscretion, especially if those actors represent a community under the sphere of governance. Reconciliation must become common practice. Otherwise Iraq is doomed to failure and all its citizens subjected to a future filled with violence.


View the article.

As always, I encourage you to leave your thoughts.

A Walk On The Wild Side

A panorama of northern Seoul

People often debate human impact on the environment. But what about our environment’s effect on us? Our surroundings undeniably influence our physical and mental status. If you live near Chernobyl then you’ll suffer from radiation poisoning. If you jog in the city then you’ll probably end up with respiratory ailments. A child who grows up in a violent home will be prone to violence. These are specific examples. I’m interested in something more general--whether or not mental health is tied to interaction with nature.

I was walking the streets of the world’s second largest metropolitan center--Seoul, South Korea--last week when it hit me. A raw, brilliant green burned into my retinae as if I had never seen such natural wonder. The building, a clothing store, was being consumed by nature. Grass, unkempt and fallow, sprawled out onto the sidewalk. Ivy climbed over the bricks and iron. I was completely arrested. For a brief moment I entered a new dimension. Glass, iron, concrete, and Seoulites melted away, leaving me to my wild desires. It was calling to something deep inside, a primitive desire to leave civilization behind.


The stark contrast between the store's wild, green facade and the gray street captured my attention

I snapped out of my dream when a little old lady knocked me with her purse trying to catch the bus. “Sorry,” I instinctively shouted, realizing that I was standing right in the middle of the sidewalk and the collision was probably my fault. Remembering that I also had places to go I was on my way, inexplicably more delighted than 10 minutes prior.




Wild, yet sophisticated

Throughout the day my thoughts returned to that building. Why was I so mesmerized by grass and ivy? I’m from the suburbs. Grass is the bed on which our neighborhoods are built and ivy is as common as brickwork. My mind, I determined, had been gray-washed. Since coming to Seoul I hadn’t seen any wild vegetation. Lawns, fields, and mountain bike paths had been replaced by tall, man-made sentries lining traffic-filled streets. Fresh, dry mountain air seemed to me as distant as the green hills bordering Seoul, obscured by the rising smog and humidity. Upon seeing nature’s Trojan horse attempting to breach the walls of metropolitan civilization, I was reminded that cleaner, dryer, cooler places exists. I wanted to be there.

That led me to debate how the urban mind can survive in such vast concrete jungles? Over a hundred thousand years humans have adapted to new environments. Populations learned to survive in nearly every climate and region. Over that evolution, we learned to incorporate nature into our lives. It’s become part of our essence, and arguably a key element to a healthy psyche. Looking back, it’s relatively recent in human history that populations have been effectively removed from the natural order, choosing to immerse themselves in technologically controlled cityscapes. Whether or not our mind has the ability to completely adapt to this new environment is a question of the age.


Images of nature cover this Buddhist bell pavilion

One of the strongest proponents for nature’s positive effect on the human psyche was Wallace Stegner. In a letter urging wilderness protection, Stegner eloquently stated his feelings on the subject:

Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed; if we permit the last virgin forests to be turned into comic books and plastic cigarette cases; if we drive the few remaining members of the wild species into zoos or to extinction; if we pollute the last clear air and dirty the last clean streams and push our paved roads through the last of the silence, so that never again will Americans be free in their own country from the noise, the exhausts, the stinks of human and automotive waste. And so that never again can we have the chance to see ourselves single, separate, vertical and individual in the world, part of the environment of trees and rocks and soil, brother to the other animals, part of the natural world and competent to belong in it. Without any remaining wilderness we are committed wholly, without chance for even momentary reflection and rest, to a headlong drive into our technological termite-life, the Brave New World of a completely man-controlled environment. We need wilderness preserved--as much of it as is still left, and as many kinds--because it was the challenge against which our character as a people was formed. The reminder and the reassurance that it is still there is good for our spiritual health even if we never once in ten years set foot in it. It is good for us when we are young, because of the incomparable sanity it can bring briefly, as vacation and rest, into our insane lives. It is important to us when we are old simply because it is there--important, that is, simply as an idea. (http://www.greenfoothills.org/about/WildernessLetter.html)

Stegner recognized the true relationship between humans and the natural environment, arguing that the natural environment’s most pristine form, wilderness, must be protected simply as an idea to ensure human sanity. Wilderness can offer much needed reprieve from societal pressures, feed primitive desires, and provide endless healthy recreational opportunities.

It’s evident that we, as a species, find comfort and inspiration from nature. It’s manifest in our decoration, our designs, our companions, and our past-times. People buy plants to warm up a home, build parks to offer reprieve, design structures or objects to mimic natural frameworks, choose to associate with various other species, and (by-and-large) prefer to recreate outdoors when the weather and air are tolerable. The challenge for the urbanite is to create a balance between this innate connection with nature and the man-made elements of urban society.


Standoff between Eastern philosophy and Western materialism: Buddha looks out over the expansive Coex Mall

As I emerged from the subway an hour later into the thick, polluted air, it made me appreciate human efforts to reconcile our cities’ assault on nature. That wild, urban scene had, now understandably, brightened my day.

El-Fanoos

El-Fanoos is many things. Literally, it means lantern in Arabic. Most are made from tin or copper and hold candles to illuminate the world around them.

Traditionally it represents the coming of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting. Children carry them through the streets to welcome the holy month. Metal-workers spend months preparing Fawanees (pl. of Fanoos) to supply the inevitable demand.

Historically it has been used to bring light to dark streets. El-Sahwawi (lit. "the waker") used el-fanoos to light his way as he traveled from house to house, calling his brethren to greet God and the world. Muslim caliphs ordered local shaykhs, or religious leaders, to light Fawanees in the streets during Ramadan. Children were also ordered to follow women out at night with a fanoos to provide protection.

El-Fanoos then is a powerful symbol--one of celebration, enlightenment, and protection. In an attempt to see the world around me more clearly, I have begun to write down my thoughts and give life to my photographs. My intention here is to receive enlightenment through analysis and share my views with those closest to me, as well as the world. My hope is that El-Fanoos will burn brightly and illuminate my life for all to see.

I dedicate this blog to my grandparents, whose wisdom and encouragement led me to the Middle East. To my mother and father, whose love and support have carried me to the stars. And to all my friends and family who have added light to my life.

Now, to start things off I've decided to publish a travel article that I wrote about a recent trip to the Northwestern US. All the photographs you will see are by me, unless otherwise stated. I also welcome any feedback, comments, or thoughts that you may have. More pictures can be found at http://picasaweb.google.com/fhc4life. Enjoy.

Walking Among Giants

Crater Lake



We pulled up to the small booth housing the short-straw-wielding park ranger stuck with gate duty that day. “Where’s the best place for a hike this time of year,” I asked. His blunt response made our hearts sink, “Outside of the park.” Several miles back we had begun to see snow on the side of the road. As we climbed the shallow slope towards the caldera, the snow rose like an ancient gateway leading us to the throne room. By the time we had reached the south gate of Crater Lake National Park, the melting snow pack was five feet deep. This guaranteed that all of the parks trails were snowed over and our objective, the lake’s Crater Rim Trail, bordered by high cliffs of the caldera’s rim and a steep drop to the frigid lake below, was too treacherous for ordinary tourist travel.



A view of Munson Creek with the famous caldera looming above


Since there was no longer a rush we stopped to grab a bite to eat at the gift shop diner, but not before challenging our newfound nemesis to a duel. Melissa and her father, Andy, did their best to beat the snow into submissions but at the end of the day they were vastly outnumbered. Tired from battle, we retreated into the forest citadel for grub. Our Eastern European waiter seemed somewhat new and we added to his confusion, as we usually do, with complicated orders rendering our desired meal as vegan as we can make it. In most cases we’re able to construct a decent meal from the most unfriendly of menus, and this time we were lucky to find ready-made vegan options like the ever-satiating veggie burger. As Melissa and her parents devoured what was left of our meal, I stepped outside to survey the winter landscape. Keep in mind that it’s early June--summer comes late to the Cascades. After the initial snow blindness subsided, I looked up to see a hazy ring around the sun. This usually means a storm front will arrive within 12 hours. Sure enough, five hours later it was raining.


Andy showing the snow who's boss


Sun halo signaling incoming precip

________

Crater Lake, the deepest lake in the United States and seventh place among all of earth’s lakes, was formed with the collapse of an ancient volcano named Mount Mazama around 5,000 BCE. Mazama was one in a chain of volcanoes stretching from northern California to Washington along the Pacific Ring of Fire. Although modern science wasn’t around to witness the eruption and subsequent implosion, geologists have discovered remnants of fallout ash hundreds of miles away in eastern Montana and Saskatchewan, Canada. For an idea of scale, Mount Saint Helens, one of the largest eruptions in the United State’s modern history, was over forty times weaker than the eruption of Mount Mazama.

For years pressure had been building under Mazama. According to Klamath tribal legend, a chiefly battle was being waged between Llao of the below world and Skell of the above. As pyroclastic flows and small eruptions released magma and hot gases, some as far as 25 miles from Mazama’s peak, a giant underground cavern was created. Mazama’s weight proved too great and the mountain collapsed in a giant, fiery implosion 50,000 greater than the nuclear bomb dropped on Nagasaki. The destruction of Llao’s home signaled the great chief’s defeat.

________


Crater Lake and Wizard Island (likened to a wizard's hat)

After taking in views of Crater Lake, we retreated below the snow line for some hiking. After all, it’s what we came to do. We drove south, out of the park, then west down the mountain. After several miles we saw a sign signaling hiking. Since it was getting late in the day and we had no particular goal in mind we took the turnout and headed down a dirt road. After a few miles we reached the trailhead.


Upper Union Creek Falls

We soon discovered our hiking destination--Upper Union Creek. The trail dropped down into a shallow valley to the foot of Upper Union Creek Falls, a series of moss-lined mini cataracts surrounded by old growth forest. As Melissa and her parents hiked ahead I dallied about like a gnome arrested by each forest resident--a funnel web, a babbling brook, lichen-ridden bark, forest ferns, each unique in intricacy and beauty. I took it in and fell behind. After a half hour passed, I decided to catch up.


These strange plants adorned the hillside


Funnel web hiding under a log

I found the group stopped by a small, natural dam. The creek was swollen with snow melt and pouring over the trees, which had fallen into the creek. After some Indiana Jones-like stunts to cross the river and photograph the scene, we trudged down the path. Andy eventually fell back and the remaining three pursued an open-ended goal. Each bend brought a new breathtaking scene as we followed the creek down, down, down. We took intermitted stops to photograph scenes, practice ninja skills, and enjoy life. After an hour and a half, with night quickly approaching, we decided to rush back. Melissa’s mother led as we jogged back to the vehicle in half the time. As I reached the car, brining up the rear, I looked up just in time catch a rain drop on my cheek.


Moss and lichen


Fairy stools upon a felled tree

________

Lava Beds National Monument

From our base in Klamath, OR we were a short jaunt away from Lava Beds National Monument. Having never heard of this geologic wonder, I was excited to explore. We crossed into California and soon reached the eastern edge of the monument.


The misleading "Petroglyph Bluff Trail"

Our first hike was up Petroglyph Bluff. Unlike its appellation suggests this was not a bluff, nor did we find any petroglyphs up top (they were all at the base). We’re convinced this was a ploy to cajole lazy tourists into hiking. Either way, we were rewarded with stunning views of the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge and Lava Beds. The plaque atop the “bluff” informed that we had just climbed the back of the great Creator. According to Modoc lore, after the world was created the giant lay here to slumber for eternity. It's sacred ground to the local tribes. From our perch high above the valley floor, as the wind whispered through the rocks, there was a sense of hollowed ground.


Hallowed ground: on top of Petroglyph Bluff


View of Tule Lake from Petroglyph Bluff

Upon descending and discovering the true location of the petroglyphs, we headed into the monument. From the East, we first passed Captain Jack’s Stronghold. From here Kintpuash, or “Captain Jack” as he came to be known, led a small band of Modoc warriors against the United States Army, sent to force the Native Americans back onto a reservation to the North. For five months the Army laid siege to the natural fortress and for five months the small band of Modoc repelled the attacks. The Modoc campaign was doomed for failure, as the odds stacked ever higher against them. Captain Jack was eventually forced to surrender after a band of Modocs agreed to hunt him down. He was hanged shortly thereafter, but immortalized through his bold campaign.

_________

As we drove further into the park we saw vast fields of A’a (pronounced Ah-Ah) lava, part of the Devil’s Homestead Flow. Further down the road, we visited the petrified Fleener Chimneys where we discovered remnants of Pahoehoe (pronounced Pa-hoy-hoy) lava. A’a is formed as the surface of a lava flow cools and forms rough, jagged blocks. Pahoehoe is formed at higher temperatures, resulting in smooth, ropy rock.

From the visitor’s center we embarked on a journey to explore the monument’s dark, sinuous lava tubes. Ever since a botched spelunking trip at Mammoth Cave National Park in Kentucky, I had wanted to descend into the bowels of the earth armed with nothing more than a few lights and my wits. As we crawled into the earth a cool wave brought a reprieve from the early summer sun.


Mushpot Cave, the neon-laden "beginner" lava tube

When this region was active, the walls of underground lava flows cooled forming protective tubes. The magma rivers eventually subsided, leaving behind a network of natural subways. For hours we ducked in and out of caves, each unique in character. There was the neon-lit Mushpot Cave, an officially proclaimed “beginner’s cave”. Then, the deep, dark Golden Dome cave with multiple branches, low ceilings, and ropy, igneous floor. Last but not least, Sunshine Cave with several collapsed ceilings lending a soft, diffused light to its smooth walls. The last was my favorite, although they were all spectacular.


Spelunkers donning headlamps exit Golden Dome lava tube


Collapsed roof in Sunshine Cave

Like scuba diving, spelunking leads you into a separate realm--a cool, subterranean world where one can explore the earth’s natural wonders in an alien environment. As we crawled out to rejoin the sunlit world, one could not help but feel a fond sense of satisfaction for the day’s deeds. We had climbed the back of a slumbering Creator, learned of a bold warrior’s last stand, received a hands-on volcanologic lesson, and explored some of earth’s most unique geologic wonders. We drove north to Oregon tired and hungry from a long day. I looked out the window to see a few swans floating on Tule Lake. Dozing off, I dreamed of an earlier time, a different culture, and I thought to myself, “Had I been born here in the mid-1800s, the natural fortress might have been named ‘Captain Jon’s stronghold’.”